This install is quite simple. It requires basic tools, a few feet of vacuum line some hose clamps and a drill and rubber grommet if you decide to enter the cabin of the vehicle through the firewall.

A manual boost controller can be adapted to any turbocharged car allowing an increase of boost beyond that of the spring used in the internal wastegate or external wastegate actuator.

How it works: The boost controller works by limiting the amount of positive pressure seen by the wastegate. e.g If the spring in designed to compress at 7PSI and 2PSI is bled off through the controller, the gate will not see 7PSI until plenum volume actually reaches 9PSI.

Make sure your car can handle the extra boost: It may be necessary to upgrade your fuel system, injectors and/or lower the compression of your engine to run boost on an NA car or increase boost on a factory turbocharged car.  This install will void your warranty, period

Warning: A boost controller interferes with the vacuum that reaches the wastegate. There is potential for all vacuum to be blocked or diverted from the gate causing it to fail to open and allowing an unregulated amount compressed air into the engine. This could cause serious damage to your motor. Use extreme caution when dialing in your boost. If you get higher than spring rate readings with the controller all the way off, recheck the installation and inspect the check valve for failure.



Controller used in this install: TurboSmart In Car Gated Boost Controller

Gated is just a fancy way of saying bleeder, but the claim is it allows boost to come on faster. TurboSmart is one of the best companies out there, so I don't doubt the claim. I just don't think the difference can be measured by SOTP.

I will say that boost in my car does come on fast and smooth, but it's a sum of the parts equation; how everything in the system ties together to make the magic... Turbo sizing, intake and exhaust configuration, and the tune. In my case, with still only a basic tune in place boost starts to comes on at 2200 RPM and depending on what PSI  I'm commanding, I hit full boost between 2800 and 3500RPM.

Install:

Locate a mounting point in the cabin and install the boost controller. I recommend attaching hoses to the ports to prevent any possible interference points.



I chose to mount the controller under the dash right between the hood latch and OBDII port using the existing trim screws.

Install the ball and spring check valve by splicing it into the line going from your vacuum source to the wastegate actuator. The orientation is clearly labeled on the check valve and should leave you with one port open at the bottom of the T.



Measure out enough vacuum line to go from the open port on the check valve into the cabin of the car. The T orientation is actually upside down, so the port will be facing up if you install it with the arrow facing you.



Attach and run this line into the vehicle and attach it to the bottom port of the controller.

I went with an uninvasive install, running the vacuum line through the top on the fender into the door jam and under the kick panel trim. The hose exits through the molded hole in the trim for the hood latch.



The top port of the controller is the bleed off port. In high boost, 30+ PSI application, this line is fed back into the top port of an external wastegate to assist closing the gate on throttle lift. In sub 30 PSI applications, this line is left open to atmosphere, but should still be run out of the cabin. Attach enough hose so it can be fed back into the engine bay or otherwise out side of the vehicle. I chose to run the line back into the trim panel and down under the door sill.

With the install complete, make sure the controller is turned all the way off (counterclockwise) and test the boost level to make sure you run only the wastegate spring rate. After proper operation is verified, turn the dial on the controller clockwise one or two clicks and test. Make a note of the PSI level and repeat until desired boost is reached.

I Will stress again that pushing your vehicle past it's factory rated boost levels or pushing boost into an engine with high compression can cause damage. As boost increases, fuel requirements change and cylinder pressure changes. Lack of fuel can cause detonation, blowing head gaskets or destroying pistons, as can greatly increased cylinder pressure even without detonation. A good knowledge of your cars capabilities is vital to archiving a good save power increase via a boost controller.