Forced4 Motorsports Inc. SVO Front Mount Intercooler Install

Forced4 front mount intercooler kit

Installation Instructions

As with all auto repairs this is only a guide to the installation. We have found from year to year there tends to be minor differences. Certain parts of this kit may need to be modified or adjusted slightly. If you do not poses basic automotive tools and have a safe working area please do not attempt to install this kit yorself. Have a professional auto mechanic do the install and enjoy a trouble free FMIC experience.

Disconnect battery
Remove fan
Disconnect water bottle
Remove radiator (2) brackets
Drain the radiator, and remove it
Remove stock IC (or whatever you have) leaving the throttle body installed
Remove VAM hose
remove stock air box and VAM bracket (if still being used)
Loosen and remove upper condenser brackets (2) (If you have AC)
Chalk rear tires and raise front of car.

** The above steps are a guide only to give you the most access to installing this kit**

The next phase of the installation is accomplished either one of 3 ways. We recommend removing the nose of the car. This gives you the most access to perfect the fit of the IC kit in your car. Please follow a qualified manual for this operation. Regardless of how you proceed, you may want to tape up the endtanks to pretect them from scratching.

If you are not nearly as picky about the small scratches and paint chips that might occur you can also just slip the IC in the nose from underneath by removing the 4 lower bumper cover bolts.

The 3^rd way which we only can recommend for qualified shops with AC recovery systems, this would be to remove the AC condenser (those of you that have AC) and remove the radiator.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE AC SKIP STEPS 11 AND 12

Remove the lower inner bolt from each side of the bumper supports ( square plate that attaches the bumper to the bumper shock)

Remove the 2 lower condenser brackets. (they are held down by a single bolt each)

Install the new lower condenser bracket (pictured above right) supplied with the kit (2 long screws through the lower radiator support.)
Using the supplied bolts and spacers hang the IC so that the bottom is almost touching the condenser and the top is touching the power steering cooling lines. The mounting tabs are soft enough to flex and will allow some movement to prefect the fit. Do not tighten IC down all the way yet.

IF you opted for the Stage 3 Kit or are adding the cold air box to an existing system continue with the following. For stage 1 and 2 installs, jump to step 28

Remove BCS (you can leave it connected it just needs to be moved out of the way) and all remaining parts from the original air box.
Locate the header panel mounting bolt behind the passenger headlight. (Customer modification point) mark this location onto the air box so it can be slotted to allow you to slide the air box over the bolt and secure with the factory nut. If you have AC (customer modification point) you may have to notch out the air box to allow the lines to cross over the support. We have seen some cars that did not require this modification due to aftermarket ac lines.

Locate the existing hole on the fender apron where the rear mounting flap is located and drill to accommodate an appropriate screw.
Remove VAM from original bracket (if not already done)

If you are complying with emissions the following modification is recommended. Purchase the following parts.

•    Motormite#96026(pre heater hose)
•    Home depot #025528105594 (lasco# 1407-101rmc) (plastic¾”barbed -1/2” elbow)
•    Home depot #025528105075 (lasco #1438005rmc) (Plastic ½ “-1/2”barbed)
•    Home depot #048643074491 (watts #A-293) (brass ¼ to 3/8 barbed)
•    3/8”ID fuel line (or existing breather kit).

Sand down the barbed end on the elbow so that the heater hose fits onto it snugly.
Drill a hole in the end of the filter so you can thread the ½” male adaptor through the hole and screw the elbow down to that. (See figure 1)
Connect the charcoal filer by any route convenient.

fig 1 fig 2

fig 3 fig 4

To make the PCV system closed loop, drill out the 3/8's bung on the S bend CAI pipe as shown in fig 3

thread in the 3/8s barbed fitting and attach the evac hose from the valve cover to the barbed fitting. Rout the 3/8s line to your liking being sure to avoid heat sources.

The valve cover evac side of the PCV system, even in configuration with our IC kit, will still have the flaw of sucking oil into the intake on accelleration. We recommend a catch can be used in line to eliminate that problem.

Install one of the double hump hoses onto the turbo (T3/T4s) tighten the clamp closest to the turbo.
Install the other double hump hose onto the 3” (S) bend pipe on the end closest to the 1’ bypass fitting.
Slide the (S) bend pipe through the hole in the back of the air box from the filter side and feed back twisting as needed to connect to the turbo. (do not tighten clamps yet),
Twist the S bend pipe so that the connector in the air box is facing up slightly.
Place the Filter on the end of the VAM. (Do not tighten)
Place the VAM into the air box open end first with the vam plug facing the ground. Carefully push the vam onto the hose while twisting the plug towards the engine. (Helpful trick)
Connect the VAM plug
Adjust the (S) bend so that the1” opening is facing up or towards the shock tower slightly
Bolt the VAM to the mounting flange
Tighten all clamps

Resume stage 1 and stage 2 IC instalation

Locate the cross over pipe and install 2 couplers and clamps. Install the pipe so that it just clears the radiator support. Depending on how much room you’ve got – how far you’ve disassembled the front of the car, you may have to play with the IC positioning to fit this pipe up and get the clamps tightened.

Install a silicone coupler onto the inlet side of the IC. Tighten the clamps on the IC side only.
Locate the turbo pipe (short one) and install the Reducer elbow on the one end and slide pipe into the lower silicone connector at the rad support. And attach the other end onto the turbo (do not tighten the clamps yet)

Install the larger pipe from the Throttle body to the IC. Put the side that goes into the IC first and then twist it into position for the throttle body
Now twist and tweak as needed so that the pipes clear the waterlines, strut tower brace (if installed), AC lines, rad support (this will just touch). Tighten all the clamps (remember to leave the adjustment screw accessible for future repairs and adjustment)

Tighten IC
Install or move condenser back into position (if applicable)
Install radiator (slide it as far to the driver side as possible)

Install the lower fan bolts loosely
Install the upper rad clamps loosely.
Install the upper fan mounting points to the clamps loosely
Tighten all bolts, tweaking for fit as necessary.
Reinstall radiator hoses (if disconnected)
Refill radiator (if applicable)
Reassemble nose (if it was removed)

Bypass instillation

If you already have the traditional collar style bypass, it will not work with the CAI stand alone box without the addition of a 3 inch ID X 3 inch section of tubing coupled between the turbo and stock flex hose. It will work with the VAM in the stock location, but you may need to source new lengths of one inch hose, as positioning of the valve will not be the same.

Cut 1 length of hose to feed the bypass valve from the throttle body pipe
Cut one length for the exhaust of the valve to the (S) bend or traditional bypass collar.
Connect it the same as you see pictured.

Route the vacuum line to any available port on the vacuum tree.
Tighten all clamps.

put the car back on the ground
reconnect battery
Start car and check for any intake or vacuum leaks.

Now go and beat up some imports.




			Forced4 front mount intercooler kit Installation Instructions As with all auto repairs this is only a guide to the installation. We have found from year to year there tends to be minor differences. Certain parts of this kit may need to be modified or adjusted slightly. If you do not poses basic automotive tools and have a safe working area please do not attempt to install this kit yorself. Have a professional auto mechanic do the install and enjoy a trouble free FMIC experience. Disconnect battery Remove fan Disconnect water bottle Remove radiator (2) brackets Drain the radiator, and remove it Remove stock IC (or whatever you have) leaving the throttle body installed Remove VAM hose remove stock air box and VAM bracket (if still being used) Loosen and remove upper condenser brackets (2) (If you have AC) Chalk rear tires and raise front of car. The above steps are a guide only to give you the most access to installing this kit The next phase of the installation is accomplished either one of 3 ways. We recommend removing the nose of the car. This gives you the most access to perfect the fit of the IC kit in your car. Please follow a qualified manual for this operation. Regardless of how you proceed, you may want to tape up the endtanks to pretect them from scratching. If you are not nearly as picky about the small scratches and paint chips that might occur you can also just slip the IC in the nose from underneath by removing the 4 lower bumper cover bolts. The 3^rd way which we only can recommend for qualified shops with AC recovery systems, this would be to remove the AC condenser (those of you that have AC) and remove the radiator. IF YOU DON’T HAVE AC SKIP STEPS 11 AND 12 Remove the lower inner bolt from each side of the bumper supports ( square plate that attaches the bumper to the bumper shock) Remove the 2 lower condenser brackets. (they are held down by a single bolt each) Install the new lower condenser bracket (pictured above right) supplied with the kit (2 long screws through the lower radiator support.) Using the supplied bolts and spacers hang the IC so that the bottom is almost touching the condenser and the top is touching the power steering cooling lines. The mounting tabs are soft enough to flex and will allow some movement to prefect the fit. Do not tighten IC down all the way yet. IF you opted for the Stage 3 Kit or are adding the cold air box to an existing system continue with the following. For stage 1 and 2 installs, jump to step 28 Remove BCS (you can leave it connected it just needs to be moved out of the way) and all remaining parts from the original air box. Locate the header panel mounting bolt behind the passenger headlight. (Customer modification point) mark this location onto the air box so it can be slotted to allow you to slide the air box over the bolt and secure with the factory nut. If you have AC (customer modification point) you may have to notch out the air box to allow the lines to cross over the support. We have seen some cars that did not require this modification due to aftermarket ac lines. Locate the existing hole on the fender apron where the rear mounting flap is located and drill to accommodate an appropriate screw. Remove VAM from original bracket (if not already done) If you are complying with emissions the following modification is recommended. Purchase the following parts. • Motormite#96026(pre heater hose) • Home depot #025528105594 (lasco# 1407-101rmc) (plastic¾”barbed -1/2” elbow) • Home depot #025528105075 (lasco #1438005rmc) (Plastic ½ “-1/2”barbed) • Home depot #048643074491 (watts #A-293) (brass ¼ to 3/8 barbed) • 3/8”ID fuel line (or existing breather kit). Sand down the barbed end on the elbow so that the heater hose fits onto it snugly. Drill a hole in the end of the filter so you can thread the ½” male adaptor through the hole and screw the elbow down to that. (See figure 1) Connect the charcoal filer by any route convenient. fig 1 fig 2 fig 3 fig 4 To make the PCV system closed loop, drill out the 3/8's bung on the S bend CAI pipe as shown in fig 3 thread in the 3/8s barbed fitting and attach the evac hose from the valve cover to the barbed fitting. Rout the 3/8s line to your liking being sure to avoid heat sources. The valve cover evac side of the PCV system, even in configuration with our IC kit, will still have the flaw of sucking oil into the intake on accelleration. We recommend a catch can be used in line to eliminate that problem. Install one of the double hump hoses onto the turbo (T3/T4s) tighten the clamp closest to the turbo. Install the other double hump hose onto the 3” (S) bend pipe on the end closest to the 1’ bypass fitting. Slide the (S) bend pipe through the hole in the back of the air box from the filter side and feed back twisting as needed to connect to the turbo. (do not tighten clamps yet), Twist the S bend pipe so that the connector in the air box is facing up slightly. Place the Filter on the end of the VAM. (Do not tighten) Place the VAM into the air box open end first with the vam plug facing the ground. Carefully push the vam onto the hose while twisting the plug towards the engine. (Helpful trick) Connect the VAM plug Adjust the (S) bend so that the1” opening is facing up or towards the shock tower slightly Bolt the VAM to the mounting flange Tighten all clamps Resume stage 1 and stage 2 IC instalation Locate the cross over pipe and install 2 couplers and clamps. Install the pipe so that it just clears the radiator support. Depending on how much room you’ve got – how far you’ve disassembled the front of the car, you may have to play with the IC positioning to fit this pipe up and get the clamps tightened. Install a silicone coupler onto the inlet side of the IC. Tighten the clamps on the IC side only. Locate the turbo pipe (short one) and install the Reducer elbow on the one end and slide pipe into the lower silicone connector at the rad support. And attach the other end onto the turbo (do not tighten the clamps yet) Install the larger pipe from the Throttle body to the IC. Put the side that goes into the IC first and then twist it into position for the throttle body Now twist and tweak as needed so that the pipes clear the waterlines, strut tower brace (if installed), AC lines, rad support (this will just touch). Tighten all the clamps (remember to leave the adjustment screw accessible for future repairs and adjustment) Tighten IC Install or move condenser back into position (if applicable) Install radiator (slide it as far to the driver side as possible) Install the lower fan bolts loosely Install the upper rad clamps loosely. Install the upper fan mounting points to the clamps loosely Tighten all bolts, tweaking for fit as necessary. Reinstall radiator hoses (if disconnected) Refill radiator (if applicable) Reassemble nose (if it was removed) Bypass instillation If you already have the traditional collar style bypass, it will not work with the CAI stand alone box without the addition of a 3 inch ID X 3 inch section of tubing coupled between the turbo and stock flex hose. It will work with the VAM in the stock location, but you may need to source new lengths of one inch hose, as positioning of the valve will not be the same. Cut 1 length of hose to feed the bypass valve from the throttle body pipe Cut one length for the exhaust of the valve to the (S) bend or traditional bypass collar. Connect it the same as you see pictured. Route the vacuum line to any available port on the vacuum tree. Tighten all clamps. put the car back on the ground reconnect battery Start car and check for any intake or vacuum leaks. Now go and beat up some imports.


			(c) 2005 Forced4 Motorsports Inc. Ford™, SVO™, Mustang™, Turbo Coupe™ and Ford Racing™ are trademarks of the Ford Motor Company.