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Project
outline: Build a single T3/TO4E turbo kit for the 4.0 Mustang
Secondary
Goal: Hit 400+RWHP and 500+RWTQ on the stock block, heads
and
cams.
Current power to date: 349 RWHP / 424 RWTQ on a 12 PSI nursed run to
5200 RPM due to MAF and clutch limitations.
Turbo Kit
Parts Brakedown:
Hot Side:
T3/TO4E Hybrid turbo - .50 AR Compressor
housing with a stage 3 57 trim wheel and a .63 AR Turbine.
2.5 inch stainless steel exhaust from cat to Y and then in to T3 turbo
flange.
3 inch down pipe to Yed to 2.5 inches. 2 offset Borla Stingers mufflers
under the car.
Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator
Cold Side:
K&N to 3 inch aluminum coupler to
accommodate valve cover breather bung
2.5 inch from turbo outlet to IC, 2.5 inch from IC to engine bay.
3 to 4 inch coupler to 4.25 inch intake pipe in to 4 to 3 inch coupler
and in to throttle body.
Stock MAF element.
IC core is 24X10X3 mounted behind the front bumper.
Blow-off is handled by a HKS eBay knockoff
Vacuum is sourced from the upper intake manifold off the main line that
goes to the fuel pressure sensor. This source provides the feed for the
gauge, blow-off valve, boost controller and wastegate actuator.
Optional:
Boost is
adjusted under the hood via a Gillis Boostvalve Manual Boost Controller
from 7 to 18 PSI.
Wideband O2 is provided by an AEM UGEO
controller. Bung is in the DP after the turbo and is accurate to
within .02
Boost readings are supplied by an Autometer 30 PSI phantom face gauge
mounted in the car under the passenger side dash.
For the most part, these gauges are not needed after final tuning has
been completed.
Tune:
Tuned via Xcalibrator 2 and Advantage Software.
Suspension:
Though a little outside of the scope of this write-up, I
have include some information on suspension modifications made
to
the car.
With the significant increase in power furnished by the turbo system,
some of these mods are needed or at least recommended, while others are
purpose oriented. Those denoted with an * are recommended
*Ford Racing Lowering Springs (rear only)
8.8 Rear End, 3.55:1 Gears, Axle tubes welded
*FRPP Girdle
BMR lower control arms
BMR Panhard Rod & Relocation Bracket
BMR Strut Tower Brace
Lakewood 50/50 Drag Racing Shocks
*PH411 Driveshaft & Safety Loop.
18" Deep Dish Bullitt Rims
A note on the recommended changes.
- The lowering springs,
be it rear only to
level out the car or a full set will really do wonders in controlling
wheel hop under hard tire spinning acceleration.
- The FRPP or any other
aftermarket differential
cover is a good idea for cars producing 250+ Horse Power and 300 lbs ft
of torque.
- The stock drive shaft
on the V6 has the slip
yoke in the center. Though this would not be a bad design of the shaft
was actually supported in the tunnel, it is not. If you race your car,
I would recommend even stock V6 owners changing out this part
for
sheer safety.
A
brief on BAD WOLF's suspension mods...
To support the power produced, the 7.5 inch open diff rear was swapped
out for a stock replacement 06 GT rear with T-Lok and 3.55:1 gears. The
rear end was further strengthened with the FRPP differential girdle and
the axle tubes were welded.
To aid in planting the rear wheels, BMR double adjustable rod end lower
control arms were used. Holding the
rear
stable on the Ford
Racing rear K springs is a
BMR adjustable panhard rod and relocation bracket. This
combination does a great job keeping everything in line while
the car squats down on
Lakewood 50/50 drag racing shocks during hard acceleration and
launching. The combination makes for a significantly rougher ride over
stock, but the handling tradeoff both in a straight line and in the
turns is well worth the price. The car sits atop 18x9 and 18x10.5
black deep dish bullitts
wearing 245x50s in the front and 275x40s in the rear for the street.
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