TheProject

Turbocharged 2006 4.0 V6 Mustang




 





















Project outline: Build a single T3/TO4E turbo kit for the 4.0 Mustang

Secondary Goal: Hit 400+RWHP and 500+RWTQ on the stock block, heads and cams.
Current power to date: 349 RWHP / 424 RWTQ on a 12 PSI nursed run to 5200 RPM due to MAF and clutch limitations.

Turbo Kit Parts Brakedown:

Hot Side:

T3/TO4E Hybrid turbo - .50 AR Compressor housing with a stage 3 57 trim wheel and a .63 AR Turbine.
2.5 inch stainless steel exhaust from cat to Y and then in to T3 turbo flange.
3 inch down pipe to Yed to 2.5 inches. 2 offset Borla Stingers mufflers under the car.
Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator

Cold Side:

K&N to 3 inch aluminum coupler to accommodate valve cover breather bung
2.5 inch from turbo outlet to IC, 2.5 inch from IC to engine bay.
3 to 4 inch coupler to 4.25 inch intake pipe in to 4 to 3 inch coupler and in to throttle body.
Stock MAF element.
IC core is 24X10X3 mounted behind the front bumper.
Blow-off is handled by a HKS eBay knockoff
Vacuum is sourced from the upper intake manifold off the main line that goes to the fuel pressure sensor. This source provides the feed for the gauge, blow-off valve, boost controller and wastegate actuator.


Optional:

Boost is adjusted under the hood via a Gillis Boostvalve Manual Boost Controller from 7 to 18 PSI.
Wideband O2 is provided by an AEM UGEO controller. Bung is in the DP after the turbo and is accurate to within .02

Boost readings are supplied by an Autometer 30 PSI phantom face gauge mounted in the car under the passenger side dash.
For the most part, these gauges are not needed after final tuning has been completed.


Tune:

Tuned via Xcalibrator 2 and Advantage Software.

Suspension:

Though a little outside of the scope of this write-up, I have include some information on suspension modifications made to the car. With the significant increase in power furnished by the turbo system, some of these mods are needed or at least recommended, while others are purpose oriented. Those denoted with an * are recommended

*Ford Racing Lowering Springs (rear only)
8.8 Rear End, 3.55:1 Gears, Axle tubes welded
*FRPP Girdle
BMR lower control arms
BMR Panhard Rod & Relocation Bracket
BMR Strut Tower Brace
Lakewood 50/50 Drag Racing Shocks
*PH411 Driveshaft & Safety Loop.

18" Deep Dish Bullitt Rims

A note on the recommended changes.
  • The lowering springs, be it rear only  to level out the car or a full set will really do wonders in controlling wheel hop under hard tire spinning acceleration.
  • The FRPP or any other aftermarket differential cover is a good idea for cars producing 250+ Horse Power and 300 lbs ft of torque.
  • The stock drive shaft on the V6 has the slip yoke in the center. Though this would not be a bad design of the shaft was actually supported in the tunnel, it is not. If you race your car, I would recommend even stock V6 owners changing out this part for sheer safety.
A brief on BAD WOLF's suspension mods...

To support the power produced, the 7.5 inch open diff rear was swapped out for a stock replacement 06 GT rear with T-Lok and 3.55:1 gears. The rear end was further strengthened with the FRPP differential girdle and the axle tubes were welded.

To aid in planting the rear wheels, BMR double adjustable rod end lower control arms were used.  Holding the rear stable on the Ford Racing rear K springs is a BMR adjustable panhard rod and relocation bracket. This combination does a great job keeping everything in line while the car squats down on Lakewood 50/50 drag racing shocks during hard acceleration and launching. The combination makes for a significantly rougher ride over stock, but the handling tradeoff both in a straight line and in the turns is well worth the price. The car sits atop 18x9 and 18x10.5  black deep dish bullitts wearing 245x50s in the front and 275x40s in the rear for the street.





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