Forced4 Motorsports
Torque Twister Turbo Kit
Torque Twister installation instructions.
First we would like to thank you for purchasing the Forced4 Motorsports Torque Twister Turbo kit for the 4.0 V6 Mustang. We hope you enjoy the power of the 4.0 with the addition of F/I. Drive safe and have fun. Please Note: Minor cutting and welding is required to install this kit. The stock pipe coming off the cats will need to be cut and the provided flanges welded on. Drilling in to the oil pan is also required. The thread size is 3/8 inch NPT. You will need a (side) drill bit and a 3/8 inch NPT tap to complete this task for the pan drain back location. If you chose to use a pump assisted return, enough -10 AN line has been included for drain back in to the oil pan via the oil drain plug location. Alternatively, you can use the driver side valve cover for drainback, but it will require a larger section of hose. Any 3/8 inch or 10 mm oil resistant high temp hose will do. -10 AN steel braided line is recommended. You can have both the flanges welded and the pan drilled and tapped at a reputable shop in your area and use a 3/8 inch NPT plug in the pan to get the car back to your chosen location for install. If you go this route, be sure to take the instructions and the CAT to Y pipe with you so the shop can match the angle on the flanges to be welded to the CATs. This will take the drill and tap and welding portion of the install out of your hands, leaving only the bolt on portion of the install remaining. Install on jack stands with drilling, tapping and cutting off the exhaust and welding on the flanges will take about 10 hours. Tools you will need Small MIG Welder or a shop to install flanges on the CATs Drill bit and 3/8s NPT TAP (or in-line oil pump) Heavy duty floor jack Heavy duty jack stands Socket set, including deep sockets - metric and standard Long extensions for your socket set Swivel adapter Open ended wrench sets - metric and standard Allen wrench set Screwdrivers Parts included in the kit Hot Side Cat to Y pipe Exhaust to turbo feed - A & B Down pipe Under Pipe (crossunder) Cold Side IC to turbo - A, B & C Intercooler IC out to engine bay - A, B, & C MAF pipe 1 x 2 inch coupler 5 x 2.5 inch couplers 1 x 2.5 to 3 inch coupler 2 x 3 inch couplers Components PT 34 Turbo Tial Wastegate Blow off Valve JoeP Pro-Z boost controller Pro-Z mounting bracket Steel braided oil feed line Steel braided oil drain line 1/4 in NPT L Block 1/4 in NPT 90* 6 feet 1/8 th in vacuum line 3 foot 1/4 in vacuum line 10 7/16 X 1.5 2 8 X 1.25 nylon lock nuts 2 8 X1.25 metal lock nuts 4 5/16s X 1 inch for turbine to down pipe flange 4 3/8s X 1.5 inch for feed pipe to turbo 4 bolt flange Turbo feed flange + 2 bolts Turbo drain flange + 2 Bolts Install  Hot Side Note: No exhaust gaskets are used or required for the installation of this kit. Gaskets fail over time, where as a metal to metal mating surface with a thin layer of high temp silicone (to fill slight surface imperfections) is much less likely to fail. 700* high temp silicone is provided with the kit. At this time, you can prime the turbo with a little engine oil if desired. Pull off the turbo feed and drain flanges (lightly assembled). Put some tape over the feed side and pour a small amount of oil - about 1 ounces - in to the drain side (large square hole of the turbo. You will likely need a funnel. Put some tape over the drain side and rotate the turbo around to ensure oil is spread throughout the center section. You can leave the turbo like this until it is time to install it. This kit utilizes the stock CATs in the stock location. The stock "Y" pipe assembly from the flanges before the CATs to where it joins the mid pipe is all one piece. The pipes need to be cut off right at the welds that join them to the CATs. Once cut, you can remove the entire Y section by removing the stock clamp, but some cutting of the mid pipe will be required to fit the temporary pipe in until you can get to an exhaust shop to have the recommended 3 inch exhaust made. If you have dual exhaust you can cut the pipes just past the H pipe. Do not cut the mid pipes too far back, as you will need enough length available to slip them in to the Y pipe included with the kit. It is best to have all the hot side bolted up in to place before making the final cut that will allow the Y to tie in to the mid pipes. This will be covered in more detail at the end of the Hot Side install. After this section of pipe has been removed, tack weld the 2.5 inch flanges to the CATs. Please refer to the pictures below to get an idea of the angle to which these flanges are oriented. Make sure your tacks are strong, but not so much that they do not allow for movement. Please refer to the diagram for measurements from the center of the bottom of the CAT to each edge of the flange.   Once the CAT flanges are tacked in to place, bolt up the CAT to Y pipe to further move the flanges in to their correct positioning. Make sure there are no gaps and add a few more tacks to the bottom and top edges to further hold them in place. Remove the cat to Y and weld the flanges fully in to place. If you choose to weld them up on the inside of the pipe, be sure not to get weld on the flange mating surface. Keep the grinder handy just in case. Install the Tial Wastegate to the CAT to Y pipe using a small amount of silicone on the flange mating surfaces. You will be mating the valve and seal ring side of the gate to the flange on the CAT to Y. The top of the gate should be pointing towards the passenger front tire once the assembly is bolted to the CATs. Install both the barbed ports on to the Wastegate. The port on the top of the gate will not be used, but a small piece of hose can be attached and wire tied out of the way to prevent dirt from clogging it. The hose must be left open to atmosphere. The lower port gets plugged in to the boost controller. You can run a line from the Wastegate to the engine bay at this point and just wrap it around something to prevent it from falling back to the ground.  With the flanges welded on to the CATs, install the CAT to Y pipe using
a thin layer of high temp silicone on both mating surfaces. (4 X11/16s
nuts and bolts and 8 washers)Place feed pipe A between the K member and the starter from front to back and slide the end in to the CAT to Y pipe slip joint. Going from the front to the back, as shown below, is the easiest way to install this pipe.     With feed pipe A in place as shown above, you can now bend the power steering cooling line out of the way so feed pipe B can be installed.. First, unbolt the retainer clip from the K member and slide it down towards the passenger side. There is a sensor in a square block in the line that you can put a wrench on. Carefully bend this part of the line up and out of the way until the plastic plug clears the 2 bolt flange of feed pipe A. You must take extreme care not to crimp or crack the line while bending it. Just take it slow and it should be fine. Once that is done, mount the hose to the radiator support using wire ties or the stock retaining clip and secure it with a washer and nut.   If you primed the turbo with oil, you can remove the tape and re install the flanges. Be sure the mating surfaces are clear of oil and use a thin layer of silicone or the gaskets supplied. (one or the other - do not use both) On the passenger side, place the turbo up between the sway bar and cross member compressor housing first. Fit the support hanger, already attached to the turbo, on to the stud coming out of the block. You can put the retaining nut (13mm metal lock) on a fair bit, but do not tighten it down all the way yet.   First, test fit feed pipe B and make sure the power steering line is well away from the pipe. Adjust it as necessary.  Take the pipe back off and place a thin amount of the high temp silicone on the exhaust intake flange of the turbo and on the flange of feed pipe B. Bolt exhaust feed pipe B on to the turbo and tighten down the 4 3/8s X 1.5 inch nuts/bolt. The bolt on the top right corner is hard to get to with the turbo in place and may still be difficult with the bracket loose. Take your time and manipulate the assembly as necessary to tighten this pipe to the turbo.   Join the A & B feed pipes: Slip the hanger on the B pipe over the stud protruding from the block on the driver side, line up the flanges (use a thin layer of high temp silicone on both surfaces) and bolt them together. You can tighten down the metal lock nut on the B pipe hanger, but do not tighten down the turbo support bracket just yet. Make sure there is good clearance between the compressor and fan belt and compressor and sway bar. There should be about 3/8s of an inch clearance from the belt and swaybar. Less is all right, but not less than a 1/4 of an inch. A shorter belt can be used if desired, but should not be required. Pull out your long extension(s) and a swivel adapter for use during the installation of the down pipe. Put a small amount of high temp silicone on the 4 bolt turbine flange and bolt it to the turbo. (4 X 9/16s X 1 inch hex bolts) The use of extensions and the swivel can make this process cumbersome when working under jack stands. Work slowly and patiently and you'll get the job done. Need a pic of down pipe being installed Apply high temp silicone to the 2 bolt flange on the down pipe and the 3 inch under pipe. Slip the 3 inch crossunder pipe in to the exhaust hanger on the transmission cross member. Bolt up the flanges and check for clearance between the crossunder pipe and CAT to Y. (2 11/16s nuts and bolts and 4 washers) Need a pic of crossunder pipe being installed Check the fit of all piping and recheck the spacing of the turbo from the belt and the sway bar. If all is well, tighten everything down., including the turbo support bracket. Install the Wastegate dump pipe. This pipe can optionally be plumbed in to the exhaust if you have a mig on hand or can be done by an exhaust shop at a later date. Using a medium amount of high temp silicone, install the two bolt band clamp around the slip connection at the Y and tighten it down. If you have a wide band O2, you can pull the plug out of the exhaust feed pipe B and Install your wide band sensor at this time. If you had a bung put in above the CATs for the sensor, use the plug to seal it. Need a pic of the pipe with the plug being removed and the sensor being installed NOTE on the Wideband: Please utilize the bung on the kit pipe unless you are running two pre-cat sensors. If you are only running one wide band sensor in one bank, then you are not getting a true reading of the mixture from both banks. Sensor readings after the CATs are only off by 0.1 or less. The hot side is now complete. Oil Feed and Drain lines Oil Drain - TAP free install: Step 1: Install the -10 AN oil drain line to the drain side (bottom side) of the turbo. Step 2: Find a suitable mounting location for the oil drain pump and follow the included instructions to wire the pump to a +12 V key on power source. Step 3: connect the -10 AN line to the intake side of the pump. Step 4: Open up the oil cap on the driver side valve cover and place it somewhere safe. Drain the engine oil. You can remove and replace the oil filter at this time if needed. Step 5: use the hose and 3/8 NPT fitting provided to plumb the drain side of the pump in to the oil pan via the 3/8s drain hole in the pan access panel. Step 6: If you choose to drain in to the valve cover you will need to supply about 4 feet of high temp oil resistant line. Run this line from the drain side of the pump to the passenger side valve cover. You can utilize the stock clip fitting on the valve cover, as the stock line is no longer plumbed back in to the intake. Cut the line off the fitting and toss it or put it in a box with the other stock components you have removed. Push the drain line over the barbs as far as you can and use a clamp to secure it in to place as shown below. This line will get very hot so run it along the fire wall and secure it away from any other lines with wire ties. Connect it to the drain side of the oil pump.
Oil drain - Drill and TAP install Step 1: Open up the oil cap on the driver side valve cover and place it somewhere safe. Drain the engine oil. You can removed and replace the oil filter at this time if desired. If you had the male 3/8 NPT to female -10 AN fitting installed by a mechanic, skip to step 5. Step 2: Using a 10mm box end wrench, remove the pan access panel. These bolts are a pita to get to with a normal box end. You either need to bend the one you have to get the right angle or buy a hinged head to get the job done easily. Step 3: Drill out the bung on the drivers side of the oil pan . Step 4: Tap out the hole with a 3/8s inch NPT tap. Clean out any metal chips from the oil pan and replace the pan cover. Step 5: Install the 3/8s male to 3/8 female straight section in to the tapped hole using liquid thread sealer or high temp silicone. Attach the 3/8s male to -10 AN fitting to the fitting in the pan bung.    Step 6: Let the thread sealer or silicone set up for about 30-40 minutes and then attach the large drain line to the -10 fitting in the oil pan and run it to the -10 fitting in the bottom of the turbo.    Oil feed side install Remove the oil sending unit from the driver side of the engine. Using a small amount of nylon tape or liquid nylon thread sealer, install the NPT 90* in to the open port on the end. Tighten the fitting so that it lines up with the other open port on the block.. Install the 1/4 inch NPT block. Be sure to tighten it so that the open ports are both facing down to the ground. Install the oil sending unit in to the open female port on the block. Attach the oil feed line to the 90* fitting and attached the other end to the feed side (top) of the turbo.    Cold Side Pipe Remove the front bumper of the car. Please refer to your Hays manual or other guide for how to remove the front bumper. The two lower inner bolts of the bumper support need to be replaced with the 2 8 X 1.25 hex bolts provided. This needs to be done because the stock bolts do not have thread right to their ends. Once the bolts are replaced, Install Intercooler and secure it in to place with two 13mm nylon lock nuts.     Attach pipe D 1 to the IC with a 2.5 inch coupler on the drivers side. Insert pipe D 2 up in to the engine bay through the triangular hole in the upper core support. Attach these two pipes together with a 2.5 inch coupler but leave them a little loose..   You are now ready to lower the car and install the engine bay cold side piping. If you are working on jack stands, just leave the car in the air. You will need to get under it one more time to tighten up all the hoses. Slip the K&N filter between the fan and engine. It's a tight fit. Let it sit on the rad support for now. Install the small 3 inch aluminum spacer pipe to the turbo with the small 3 inch coupler and two clamps. Remove the clamp from the K&N filter and put it over the aluminum spacer pipe - the K&N will not slip easily in to place with the clamp on the filter because of how tight the fit is here. Install the K&N Filter to the aluminum spacer pipe, slide the clamp over the filter and tighten it down.. Install the 2 inch coupler on to the turbo compressor. Connect P3 (the compressor out pipe) and P2 (blow off pipe) together with a 2.5 inch coupler. Be sure that the blow off flange is facing the drivers side of the engine bay. Install the compressor out pipe (do not put the blow off valve on to the pipe yet) in to P1 (the IC to bay pipe) with a 2.5 inch coupler. It's tight in here, but just be patient and you'll get it done. Slip the other end of the pipe into the two inch coupler on the turbo and tighten all the clamps down.    On the driver side, slip the 2.5 to 3 inch transition hose over the pipe sticking up in to the bay and tighten it down. Install the 3 inch coupler to the MAF intake pipe and slip it over the throttle body. Slip the other end of the pipe in to the transition hose and tighten all the clamps down.   All the cold side clamps and the IC bracket retaining nuts can be tightened down now. Installing the MAF You will need to remove some of the factory tape from the loom where the MAF wiring exits the harness. This will free up enough length so extending the wiring harness is not needed. A small piece of black loom is provided to cover the wiring from the harness to the MAF plug.   Install the MAF into the bung on the 3 inch intake pipe and plug in the connector. The following is not applicable to those using the drivers side valve cover for oil drainback. For emission purposes, the threaded portion of the bung is for the driver side valve cover evac. This port should not be used without a secondary PCV valve or one way check valve in place. If no valve is used, the crank case will see manifold pressure and could result in serious oil blow by or front/rear main seal failure. The driver side vent can be left open to atmosphere, as it is not under vacuum at idle. The passenger side PCV system can also be vented to atmosphere. The port on the intake manifold will need to be plugged if you choose to go this route. This configuration is not emission legal and would be considered OFF ROAD USE ONLY. We recommend that you use an open element filter on a length of hose and secured on the fire wall or inner fender. You can run the line around the engine and secure them close to the filter on the turbo if desired. It is highly recommended that a large catch can and some sort of check valve be used both sides of the PCV system to prevent oil from the valve covers from entering the intake. Though the system should be closed to oiling by the PCV, it just does not work that way with F/I. On throttle lift, the quick change from pressure to vacuum sucks the PCV bullet open and draws oil in to the hose. The catch can should catch this and prevent it from getting to the intake. This system is not fool proof, but it will work to reduce the amount of oil that gets in to the intake track. Installing the vacuum lines  Remove the vacuum line on that manifold and install a small amount of 1/4 inch vacuum line from the manifold to the
supplied variable size vacuum T. Connect the stock hose assembly to the other side of the T. Select a location for one of the multi port vacuum fittings provided (use wire ties or some kind of clamp to secure it if desired) and run a length of vacuum line from the open port on the T at the manifold to the multi port (Tree) fitting. If you are not running any gauges, you will only need two open ports. One to supply the Boost Controller and one for the Blow Off Valve..  Look
for a mounting location for your boost controller. The best place
for it is as close to the Wastegate and manifold pressure as possible.
The fire wall on the driver side is ideal, but you can mount it to the
drivers side inner fender as well. You will need one self tapping bolt
(not provided) or a nut and bolt for mounting the hinged bracket. In
this install we utilized a bolt in the bracket attached to the driver
side shock tower. Once the bracket is in place and bolted down. install the boost controller with the two allen screws provided. Choose your desired angle on the hinge part of the bracket and use the provided allen wrench to tighten the pressure screw on the bracket hinge (see instructions provided with the controller) If you have already connected the line to the Wastegate, connect the other end to the side port of the Boost Controller. Connect a line from the vacuum tree to the bottom barb on the boost controller. Use the mini clamps provided on these lines. This is imperative! If for whatever reason manifold pressure does not get to the Wastegate, it will not open, causing over boost and possible engine damage. Make sure line to the Wastegate is run as far from the exhaust as possible and fastened securely. You can put 1/4 inch loom or heat wrap over this line to protect it, but as long as it is an inch or more away from heat sources it should be fine. Run a line from the blow off valve to an open port in the Tree. Cap any other open ports with the plugs provided. If you are using a boost gauge, run a line from the tree to the interior of the car and connect it to the boost gauge. Once all lines are hooked up and secured and all other ports in the tree are capped the install is complete! Check everything over! Leave the car up on the jack stands Programming the ECU and Starting the car for the first time  Hook up the positive battery cable. Upload the provided LL3 tune to your Xcal. Instruction on how to do this are available at the SCT website. If you purchased your Xcal 2 with the kit, the tune is already on the unit. With the car off, Plug the Xcal 2 in to the OBD2 port and follow the on screen instructions. The base tune "Twister" will be the only tune on the unit unless otherwise specified. User programmable options are enabled so you can adjust for Tire Size and Gear differences and automatic shift pressures. If you primed the turbo before you installed it, you can skip the first step below.
Lower the car and take her out for a spin. With cold CATs you may feel that there is a bit of lag and there will be some popping in the exhaust. Once the CATs are warm both of these conditions will disappear. We recommend that you give the turbo a 500 mile break in period before really pushing it hard for extended periods. Support for the Twisted Turbo Kit is available 24/7. Yes, you read that correctly. You can call for support 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to get assistance with your install. The only thing we ask is that you give us time to wake up before pounding us with questions. However, Insults and profanity is quite welcome immediately upon pickup. |
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